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Ama Dablam and Pumori Expedition
 

Spring/Autumn 2010

Ama Dablam and Pumori Expedition

Mt. Ama Dablam has been considered the prettiest mountain in the world. High on her Southwest face hangs a glacier resembling a 'Dablam' - the sacred ornament box worn by ladies in the Sherpa community. It was this spectacular feature that got her the name "Ama Dablam". She lies alongside Everest in the heart of the Khumbu valley offering a superb diversions close up view of Mt Lhotse, Mt. Makalu, Mt. Cho Oyu and Mt. Everest. If you have previous climbing experience and wish to participate fully as a team member of an expertly led expedition to one of the world's most impressive mountain then climbing expedition to Ama Dablam is the best suited. This Mountain is a technically demanding mountain for climbing in Nepal. It is considered an ornament of the Himalayas in Nepal. Although the height is only 6812m Ama Dablam expedition requires steep ice, rock and snow climbing. Normally, three camps are set in Ama Dablam climbing above the base camp (4,570m), however, only two camps are used to spend the nights. The normal route for climbing is South-West Ridge. The ascent from Base Camp to camp 1st is considered one the difficult days of the expedition

Experience Required: All climbers need to have good skills on rock and ice climbing and technically competent. On most parts of the routes there will be fixed rope, however, the climbers should posses skills of climbing through steep rock and hard compact ice. We follow the standard South West ridge route (normal route) to the top, as it is consider the safe route, free from the objective danger such as avalanche and so on. The route we follow begins at Lukla (2850m) and the initial days of the trek pass through the legendary Sherpa country up the spectacular high valley of the Khumbu. Most of the route on the actual climbing is fixed with no icefall or glacier to negotiate, and most of it is concentrated on the crest of a ridge. The climb is relatively safe though exposed and sheep and not really a mountain for debutantes. We have designed the programs to climb Island Peak 6189m. before go to Ama Dablam Expedition. It is easier for those people who like to get summit of Ama Dablam.

Mt. Pumori is the most popular and beautiful mountain for those who wish to climb over 7000m. peaks in the Himalayas of Nepal. We arrange both the logistic support and guided climbing for Pumori expedition. Climbing Pumori requires a moderate technical climb on ice and snow. The normal route for the climbing is South East Ridge.  Pumori expedition Base camp will be set up at about 5300m. We climb through the glaciers for approximately 4 hours and reach Camp 1 at 5700m. From Camp 1, we climb 480m. on the face with 40 to 60 degrees slope and pass through a snow wall to reach camp 2 at 6200 meter on a narrow ridge. From camp 2, we climb approximately 450 meter through ice with 30-60 degrees slopes passing through ice walls and crevasses. This section is prone to avalanches from big seracs hanging on the shoulder above. Camp 3 will be set up at an altitude of 6, 480meter on the ridge. Passing through crevasses, we climb up to Pumori cliff and then to the summit. There are many mountaineers climbing Pumori, check their technical skills and their feelings as well as experience of climbing Himalayas in Nepal to prepare for 8000 meter peaks in Nepal for the future climbing plan.

We have designed the expedition itinerary for those climbers who like to do combined expedition in Nepal.

Expedition Itinerary:
Hotel/ Lodges/ Camping
44 Days Trek/Climbing
Grade: Mountaineering
Food: Included except main meals in Kathmandu
Accommodation: 6 Nights Kathmandu and 43 Nights Tea-house Lodges/Camping
Season: Winter, Spring & Autumn

Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu airport, meet our staff then transfers to Hotel.
Day 02: Kathmandu free.
Day 03: Official works for expedition and briefing by officer of Ministry of Tourism.
Day 04: Kathmandu - Lukla by flight and trek to Phakding. Teahouse Lodge or, Tented Camp
Day 05: Phakding - Namche Bazaar. Teahouse Lodge or, Tented Camp
Day 06: Namche Bazaar Acclimatization. Teahouse Lodge or, Tented Camp
Day 07: Namche Bazaar - Thyanboche. Teahouse Lodge or Tented Camp
Day 08: Thyanboche - Ama Dablam Base Camp. Tented Camp
Day 09-23: Climbing Period for Ama Dablam 6812m. Tented Camp
Day 24: Ama Dablam BC - Pheriche. Teahouse Lodge or Tented Camp
Day 25: Pheriche - Lobuche. Teahouse Lodge or Tented Camp
Day 26: Lobuche - Pumori Base Camp. Tented Camp
Day 27- 41: Climbing Period of Pumori 7145m. Tented Camp
Day 42: Pumori Base Camp - Lobuche. Teahouse Lodge or Tented Camp
Day 43: Lobuche - Thyangboche. Teahouse Lodge or Tented Camp
Day 44: Thyangboche - Namche. Teahouse Lodge or Tented Camp
Day 45: Namche - Phakding. Teahouse Lodge or Tented Camp
Day 46: Phakding - Lukla. Teahouse Lodge
Day 47: Fly Lukla to Kathmandu then transfer to Teahouse Lodge.
Day 48: Kathmandu free.
Day 49: Kathmandu free.
Day 50: Last minute, transfer to airport for onward journey

Expedition Cost in group joining basis;

US $ / Euro          Per Person
Climbing Sherpa: Per Sherpa US $ 1500 (if required by climber)

Tea-house Lodge & Camping expedition Cost Covers:

  • All land transportation by private vehicle, (Airport /Hotel/Airport, trekking, expedition pick up & drop).
  • Welcome dinner with Nepali culture programs.
  • 6 Nights Hotel Accommodation in Kathmandu with bed & breakfast basis at (3 Star Hotel) Hotel.
  • 3 Meals; B/L/D and accommodation during the treks at best available Teahouses Lodge till Base Camp and back.
  • Experience and professional expert Nepalese expedition crews; 1 Base Camp guide, 1 Cook, necessary Kitchen boys, Each person 1 Tent for sleeping, Dining Tent, Tables, Chairs, Mattress, Toilet Tent, Mess Tent, Shower Tent, Kitchen tent staff and Liaison officer tent and Kitchen utensil while in Base Camp as well as provide hygienic continental 3 hot meals B/L/D.
  • Crew’s equipment charge, daily wages, expedition insurance and other facility will be provided by our agency itself.
  • Permit fee of Ama Dablam and Pumori Expedition, trekking permit and National Park fees.
  • Per Person 40 KG. Equipment’s luggage or barrels allowed for expedition till to Base Camp.
  • Per Person 30 KG. Expedition equipment’s luggage or barrels is allowed on the way back to Lukla from Base Camp. (Expedition equipment’s luggage or barrels carried by Porter or Yak). (Transportation of all food and climbing equipments to base camp and back.)
  • Air fare: Kathmandu/Lukla/ Kathmandu flight, domestic airport tax with Cargo fees.
  • Equipment allowance, daily allowance for Liaison officer, his 3 meals and air ticket.
  • Satellite Phone (Thuraiya - Pay call service till BC per minute US $ 5 & Euro 4).
  • Gammo Bag for the life saving device, incase of altitude sickness for Member.
  • Expedition Kit bag and T-shirts for each member with expedition label.
  • Medical Kit Box for Nepalese crew’s and simple medical service for members till BC.
  • Visa extension.
  • Agency Service Charge and taxes etc.

Fully Camping expedition Cost Covers:

  • All land transportation by private vehicle, (Airport /Hotel/Airport, trekking, expedition pick up & drop).
  • Welcome dinner with Nepali culture programs.
  • 6 Nights Hotel Accommodation in Kathmandu with bed & breakfast basis at (3 Star Hotel) Hotel Manang.
  • Experience and professional expert Nepalese expedition crews; 1 Base Camp guide, 1 Cook, necessary Kitchen boys, Each person 1 Tent for sleeping, Dining Tent, Tables, Chairs, Mattress, Toilet Tent, Mess Tent, Shower Tent, Kitchen tent staff and Liaison officer tent and Kitchen utensil as well as provide hot hygienic continental 3 hot meals B/L/D during the trip till Base Camp.
  • Crew’s equipment charge, daily wages, expedition insurance and other facility will be provided by our agency itself.
  • Permit fee of Ama Dablam and Pumori Expedition, trekking permit and National Park fees.
  • Per Person 40 KG. Equipment’s luggage or barrels allowed for expedition till to Base Camp.
  • Per Person 30 KG. Expedition equipment’s luggage or barrels is allowed on the way back to Lukla from Base Camp. (Expedition equipment’s luggage or barrels carried by Porter or Yak). (Transportation of all food and climbing equipments to base camp and back.)
  • Air fare: Kathmandu/Lukla/ Kathmandu flight, domestic airport tax with Cargo fees.
  • Equipment allowance, daily allowance for Liaison officer, his 3 meals and air ticket.
  • Satellite Phone (Thuraiya - Pay call service till BC per minute US $ 5 & Euro 4).
  • Gammo Bag for the life saving device, incase of altitude sickness for Member.
  • Expedition Kit bag and T-shirts for each member with expedition label.
  • Medical Kit Box for Nepalese crew’s and simple medical service for members till BC.
  • Visa extension.
  • Agency Service Charge and taxes etc.

Expedition Cost Doesn’t Cover:

  • Airfare: To & from your country.
  • Nepal entry visa and Re-entry visa fees (Can be obtained at the airport on upon arrival).
  • International airport departure tax.
  • Personal local transportation in Kathmandu except above mentioned programs.
  • Personal climbing gear and equipment above base camp.
  • High altitude food, fuel Gas & stove above base camp.
  • Major meals: Lunch and Dinner during your stay in Kathmandu.
  • All Drinks except tea and coffee.
  • Personal insurance such as travel, accident, medical and emergency evacuation.
  • Personal medicines and First-Aid expenses.
  • Personal nature expenses.
  • Oxygen, Mask & regulator.
  • Climbing Sherpa.
  • Nepal custom duty for import of expedition goods arriving to Nepal by air or road. Postage letter, Laundry service, Telephone calls and all other items of personal nature.
  • Walkie-Talkie. permit, Radio Permit, Satellite phone permit,
  • Extra Porter or Yak: Per Porter US $ 10 and US $ 14 per Yak's will be charged if luggage is over 40 KG.
  • Summit bonus US $ 500 for climbing guide (Sherpa). (if required by climbers)
  • Tips for Nepalese crews, etc.

Note: Garbage Deposit: US $ 2000 + 2000 (US $ 4000) (sharing with all total of the expedition climbers) and Deposit fee will be not refunded if the climbers don’t take back their garbage to BC.


 

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